Las Alpujarras | The Alhambra | Costa Tropical | Sol Y Nieve Skiing
Las Alpujarras ... a rural paradise
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The Alpujarras is unique, an area of stunning natural beauty with a delightful climate, it has almost completely avoided the ravages of twentieth century life. Dominated by the magnificent rugged peaks of Spain's highest mountain range, the Sierra Nevada, the foothills of the southern slopes are cut by deep, fertile valleys, rich with groves of almonds and olives, oranges and lemons, cherry orchards and terraced pastures. There are panoramic views in every direction, from the snow-capped peaks of Veleta and Mulhacen rising spectacularly to 12,000 ft, to the coastal hills. At sunset, the Rif Mountains of Morocco are sometimes clearly visible 125 miles away, across the Mediterranean. Just 35 minutes from the Costa Tropical with Salobrena being the nearest beach, the climate is typical of Andalucia, warm and sunny with crystal-clear, blue skies throughout most of the year. The mountain air is the cleanest in Europe and, because of the altitude, the heat in mid-summer is not overbearing as it can be in much of Spain. |
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La Alpujarra is the name given to this region by the Moors, who remained hidden in these hills for over 100 years after their retreat from their Kingdom in Granada. Their legacy is to be seen everywhere, not least in the architecture of the delightful mountain villages, built in typical Berber style. The whitewashed stone houses, seemingly impossibly stacked on top of each other with Moroccan style flat roofs with protruding chimneys, cluster haphazardly in narrow, twisting streets, reminiscent of the villages in the High Atlas Mountains. Typically Andalucian are the flower covered balconies and the bunches of red peppers left out to dry in the sun.
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The pace of village life is slow and tranquil. It is not unusual to see sheep or goats herded through the village or senior citizens relaxing on shady corners, watching the world go by. The trappings of mass-tourism are thankfully absent, but it is easy to find attractive restaurants and bars where gastronomic delights of the region as well as international dishes may be savoured. La Alpujarra has long been for artists and writers, attracted to the area by its enchanting beauty. Local potters, weavers and carpenters display the fruits of their labour in the village craft shops. For visitors who wish to explore further afield, the historic city of Granada with its magnificent Arab palace and gardens, La Alhambra, is just an hour away by car. To the south, the Mediterranean coastal resorts of the Costa Tropical are the same distance and excellent skiing can be enjoyed on the Sierra Nevada slopes. |
Ski in the morning, sunbathe on the coast in the afternoon and enjoy the setting sun over the Alpujarreñan hills.
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The name Alhambra comes
from an Arabic root which means "red or crimson castle", perhaps due
to the hue of the towers and walls that surround the entire hill of La Sabica
which by starlight is silver but by sunlight is transformed into gold. But there
is another more poetic version, evoked by the Moslem analysts who speak of the
construction of the Alhambra fortress "by the light of torches", the
reflections of which gave the walls their particular coloration. Created originally
for military purposes, the Alhambra was an alcazaba (fortress), an alcázar
(palace) and a small medina (city), all in one. This triple character
helps to explain many distinctive features of the monument. |
| Massive towers and gates surround the palace complex emphasising its fortress-like character; there are also ring walls and the remains of the Alcazaba. From the top of the Torre de la Vela you get a panoramic view over the Sierra Nevada. The road up into the Alhambra park passes through the Puerta de las Granadas, a triumphal arch decorated with three pomegranates, and designed by Medro Machuca. To the right, on Monte Mauror, the 12th century Torres Bermejas can be seen; this is part of the fortification linking with the Alcazaba. Walking through the wood you come to the Puerta de la Justicia; above the gate's first horseshoe arch there is a carved hand to symbolise defence against evil. The second horseshoe arch is decorated with many Arab inscriptions. There are beautiful blue and green azulejos. After four right-angled bends (for reasons of defence), you come to the entrance of the Alhambra palace itself. The 14th century Puerta del Vino leads to the Plaza de los Aljibes (square of wells). To the west of the square there are the former buildings of the Alcazaba; to the east there is the Palace of Charles V and to the north the Alhambra palace. The Alcazaba is enclosed by ramparts; several of its towers survive. The Torre de la Vela is the most significant one, dominating a magnificent panorama of the city and surrounding areas. |
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The Costa
Tropical province is particularly picturesque beachside and easy to get
away from the crowds. The mountains run right down to the sea and the coastline
is typically a series of coves and promontories. There is La Herradura which
is pretty and unspoilt and located between the two attractive promontories
of Punta de la Mona and Cerro Gordo. Nearby in a protected cove
east of Punta de la Mona is the impressive Marine del Este yacht harbour. Water
sports and scuba diving are popular here, thanks to the variety of sea life
and clarity of the water. |
| The jewel of the Costa Tropical, Salobreña, is a whitewashed township clinging to a huge lump of rock just back from the shoreline, topped by a Moorish castle and surrounded by lush sugar cane plantations. Salobreña has witness 6,000 years of human history, thanks to its privileged position and benign climate. It's Moorish castle was built in the 10th century and its Mudejar 16th century church, Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Rosario is built on top of the old mosque. Roman remains turn up everywhere. A climb to the top of the old town is well worth the effort. From various viewpoints you can drink in the rugged landscape of the Sierra del Chaparral which cradles the town the back, while under the cliffs are orchards of sub-tropical fruit trees and expanses of sugar cane spreading to the shoreline. |
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Salobreña enjoys a likely cultural scene with year round concerts, plays and films. In summer, outdoor shows are held in the Arab Castle, and other activities take place in the Old Town and Parque de la Fuente. It also has colourful annual fiestas and ferias.
Golf, tennis, football, mountain biking and fishing, along with air and water sports are all within easy reach. A real treat for snorkellers and divers is the artificial reef built two years ago off the Penon rock to shelter and encourage sealife, now showing remarkable results.
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This is the southern most resort in Europe situated below the twin peaks of Mulhacen and Veleta between 2,100 and 3,000+ metres above sea level. There are up to 61 kms of ski runs, with 39 pistes and 6 cross country routes. The Sierra's gentle slops and wide runs make it good for beginners and intermediate skiers, not to mention snowboarders. The resort is 30 kms from Granada, up a modern two lane road. Unless snow has just fallen, it is usually possible to drive to the resort without chains. The season runs from December to April and, apart from the high season days of Christmas, Easter and half term, is very reasonable in cost. |
The resort has been open for many years but was rejuvenated for the World Alpine Ski Championship in 1996.
This mountain range is the highest in Iberia, with the top of Mulhacen reaching 3,482 metres (11,400 ft). On a clear day it is easy to see Africa in one direction and a third of Spain to the north. A road, which is one of the highest in Europe, passes over the peak to the Alpujarras on the other side. It used to be open to anyone in summer but unfortunately is now closed to the public.
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